“Esa Dog In Training Vest -Dog Training In Omaha”

When you want your dog to have a high level of obedience and/or fix specific behavioral issues, contact Offleash K9. Our dog trainers will train your dog to be obedient off leash at home and out and about.

Periodically scatter a few safe toys and treats in and around her crate when she is not looking—she will find them on her own and begin to associate her crate with pleasure right from the start. And at feeding times, place her food bowl inside the crate and allow her to eat there. If she seems reluctant, try placing it just over the crate’s threshold so that she can still stand outside the crate while she eats. If that does not work, place her food bowl just outside the open crate door. The idea is to reinforce her association of the crate with pleasure.

We started out in the garage dropping the treats on the floor and taking just one step. Then were able to get 2 steps in. It was going pretty good until it was time to leave the garage and go into that very exciting area, the front yard and the outside world. Getting to this point took 3 sessions just a few minutes each.

Always end on a positive. Remember the first rule: training should be fun! By ending each session on a positive note (such as an “easy win” command that is sure to result in success), you help your dog and yourself look forward to the next session.

As one of the most popular dog breeds (and the second most surrendered and euthanized in shelters,) Chihuahua madness is a very real phenomenon. These little dogs are taking over our homes and our hearts.

Two broad ramps, usually about 3 feet (0.91 m) wide by 8 to 9 feet (2.7 m) long, hinged together and raised so that the hinged connection is between five and six-and-a-quarter feet above the ground (depending on the organization), roughly forming an A shape. The bottom 36 to 42 inches (0.91 to 1.07 m) of both sides of the A-Frame are painted a bright color, usually yellow, forming the contact zone, onto which the dog must place at least one paw while ascending and descending. Many sanctioning organizations prohibit that A-Frames have low profile, narrow, horizontal slats all along their length to assist the dog’s grip going up and down due to the number of dogs that have broken their toes[citation needed] on the slats; other organizations allow slats; and many organizations now allow or require a rubberized surface so the dog can ascend and descend easier. Some organizations allow the top of the A-frame to be narrower than the bottom.

I have a tricky question (probably happens to more than just me, but I’m feeling pretty defeated). I have an 8 month old female Boxer puppy who HATES her crate… whines, cries, digs, poops, pees, rolls in it, prances in it… you name it, she’s done it. I am a dog trainer of basic obedience for the AKC CGC program, a huge dog lover, and a firm believer in crate training, positive reinforcement, etc. I also have a 5 year old male Boxer who is fully crate trained, but allowed to be lose in the house while I am gone at work. Puppy was so impossible at night that I have allowed her be lose in my bedroom and she lets me know when she needs to go outside to potty. During the day though, that is not an option because I am at work. I go home on my lunch hour and clean up poop and pee, play outside with both dogs, and do the whole routine again when I come home from the office adding on a full bath due to her being covered in poop. I am exhausted, my house is disgusting, I don’t know what I’m doing wrong, and I know she’s not happy either. Any advice?? PLEASE!

He is very receptive and enjoys being in his crate – this is his den, although I have been closing the door a few times throughout the day without much trouble at night he tells you exactly what he thinks.

Start with intervals of five minutes or less and make sure you stay close by and visible. Gradually keep it closed for longer periods and leave the room so your dog can come to understand that she is still safe — and will eventually get out — even if you’re not right there in front of her.

I closed the door and set the timer for 7 minutes. I clicked and treated for random intervals of 5, 10, 15, 25, 30, 45, and 60 seconds, during this 7 minutes. I varied between being in the room and out of the room. She did great! No barking and she just lay there and waited. I was nervous she would start barking at 60 seconds, but she was able to do it.

Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. At first, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it’s imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he’ll keep doing it.

Can someone please do an article on the OPPOSITE? Dogs that refuse to walk? I have a very subborn mini bull terrier who puts the brakes on and will let me drag him rather than walk. After about 10 minutes of fighting he is fine for most of the walk and seems to like it but if he isn’t feeling it, he makes it known, which is EVERY single morning.

Submissive dogs and some breeds such as Labradors often open their mouths in a kind of lop-sided “grin”, and indeed, it is a sign of friendliness. But when lips are drawn back tightly to bare the teeth, that’s aggression, make no mistake.

Start with brief absences with your dog free in your house. Be sure to dog-proof your home before you go. Put your garbage away and pick up items you don’t want your dog to chew. Leave out several toys that she can chew. You want to set her up to succeed!

Never force them in, just hope that they do. This isn’t training yet and we’re not concerned if they go in or not, it would just be a bonus. But what we’re doing is teaching them the crate is there, full of treats and even fun toys and chews…it’s not so scary.

(This method requires that your dog already have a reliable Sit and Come in distracting places.) Walk in your intended direction. The instant your dog reaches the end of his leash and pulls, red light!—stop dead in your tracks and wait. When he stops pulling and puts slack in the leash (maybe he turns to see what you’re doing and this makes the leash a little slack), call him back to you. When he comes to you, ask him to sit. When he does, say “Yes,” give him a treat and resume walking (green light). If your dog looks up at you in anticipation of more tasty treats, quickly say “Yes,” and give him one while you keep walking. If he pulls again, repeat the red-light step above. As you’re walking, reward your dog frequently for staying next to you or slightly ahead and for looking up at you. If you do this consistently, he’ll learn that 1) if he stays near you or looks at you, he gets treats and gets to keep moving, and 2) if he pulls on the leash, the fun stops because he doesn’t get to keep walking and he has to come back to you and sit. If your dog pulls toward an object to sniff or eliminate, carry out the red light, but when he comes back and sits by you, don’t reward him with a treat. Instead, make the object he wanted to sniff the reward. Say “Yes,” and release him to go to the object. (Make sure you go with him toward the object so that he doesn’t have to pull again to reach it.) After a few days or weeks, you’ll find yourself stopping less frequently. Make sure you continue to reward your dog for walking with slack in the leash or he’ll start pulling again.

It’s fine to more securely lock him upstairs, sure. However, I would refrain from a padlock just in case the worst happens and there’s a house fire, you wouldn’t be able to free him. I know the risk is vanishingly small, but I’d prefer you used a bolt style lock that slides (like the inside of many loos) or some other latch arrangement. Something you can easily open in a hurry.

He has also trained at the famous Vohne Liche Kennels with owner Ken Licklider, which the Nat Geo show “Alpha Dogs” is based off. Vohne Liche Kennels is the training hub for the military and DoD special forces K9s. Last year, Nick was made part of Sport Dog’s Pro Staff, as he was considered to be one of the top electronic trainers in the world. Nick will be appearing on “Alpha Dogs” in the coming months.

Hello! I recently adopted a 1 year old Cane Corso mix. We confined him to only the upstairs which is a huge open loft. We noticed that he was scratching at the door frame and even figured out how to open the bedroom door. We then decided to give him free roam of the house because once he was out of the upstairs, he wasn’t destructive of anything else and liked laying on his favorite sofa that was downstairs. Unfortunately we have two cats that like to engage him in a game of chase and when one cat ran out his cat door, the dog tried to run through it as well and plowed through the whole cat door contraption allowing him to get outside. We can no longer give him free roam of the house in fear of the cat chase happening again. While we are slowly introducing him to the crate (I expect this process to take weeks) is it okay to more securely lock him upstairs (we put a pad lock on the door) until he is comfortable enough to stay in the crate while we are gone?

Hello! We have a 2 year old Lab mix who we have recently (in the past month) adopted from a shelter. We have no knowledge of his background, but we do know that he is potty trained but knows little else. We crate him at night using treats to encourage him to enter and leaving him with a chew toy and he does just fine. When I try to crate him during the day (to go out for about 3 hours or less) he resists and whines continuously. We have walked before crating and left him with a Kong filled with treats and other chew toys but he panics and tries (usually succeeding) to escape the crate. When he stays out when we leave the house he scratches at the doors and chews anything left out. Any advice on how to ease his daytime anxiety? Thank you!

Thanks for writing this informative article. My husband and I just got a 10 week old chocolate labrador puppy. I wanted to crate train her, but it may be too late now because we have been putting her in there to sleep at night. She doesn’t hate it in there, but definitely howls and cries for a good amount of time before stopping. My question is, where should we let her sleep if not in the crate? Most other websites have always said to put her in the crate and, as hard as it is, ignore her whining until it stops on her own (given that she doesn’t need to be taken out).

Dogs, like humans, are diurnal, so taking walks in the morning is ideal. I recommend setting aside thirty minutes to a full hour. The specific needs of each dog differ. Consult your vet and keep an eye on your dog’s behavior to see if his needs are being met.

We discussed the many benefits the use of a crate can offer, and hopefully put to rest any fears you may have had regarding the use of a crate being cruel in the previous article: ‘Why use a dog crate – and is it cruel to crate a dog‘.

Whether by road or by air, traveling in a crate is the best and safest way for your dog to travel. It keeps them calm, offers protection for when an accident occurs and protects the driver from the distractions of a loose dog in the car.

When my lab mix was a puppy (she’s going on 13 now) she used to do something similar. She would hold the leash in her mouth and sort of walk herself. You’d think it was so that she could pull without hurting her neck, but she never really pulled on walks. Always walked right next to you unless there was a squirrel nearby (I know, I’ll never have another like her.)

Crate training your dog may take some time and effort, but can be useful in a variety of situations. If you have a new dog or puppy, you can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rules – like what he can and can’t chew on and where he can and can’t eliminate.

I use a clicker and high value food rewards for crate training, the clicker being a little device that emits a sound when you click it to tell your puppy they’ve done something we want and will get a reward. A high value treat being cooked meats…not just kibble.

For successful training, practice the following basic training steps with your puppy every day. Keep training sessions short. Your puppy will see everything as a game, so keep him stimulated by changing what he’s learning. Do each command for about five minutes and come back to it whenever you can.

If you catch your puppy in the act, clap loudly so he knows he’s done something unacceptable. Then take him outside by calling him or taking him gently by the collar. When he’s finished, praise him or give him a small treat.

Invest heavily in dog training, and there will be no need for punishment. It takes time and effort to see real improvement in your dog’s behavior. Don’t let your frustrations distract you from your goal to properly and successfully train your pet.

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