This workshop is for dogs beginning contact training or those who need experience on equipment. Problems with running contacts or 2-on-2-off will be addressed as needed. Dogs attending should have a good understanding of “stay.” Limited enrollment.
Along the same line, if you want to pursue activities or jobs with your dog, take into account your dog’s personality and energy level. For example, when evaluating potential puppies for our explosive detection dogs, the trainers look for drive and energy that is hard to shut down. The dog needs to be able to adapt to a constantly changing schedule and environment, and a high energy dog that is always “on” tends to cope best in those situations. On the flip side, a therapy dog needs to stay calm and consistent in a variety of circumstances, so a high-energy, hyper-active dog may not be the best choice.
Just as important as how you work with your puppy in her crate is what you do with your puppy outside of her crate. Both age-appropriate physical and mental activities will help your dog be ready to rest when you put her into her crate. A tired dog will have a much easier time settling in her crate.
Where I went wrong was putting her in the crate and keeping her in there when she started barking, and then panicking that she had to go potty, so letting her out to go potty (sometimes she did, sometimes she didn’t). I think she learned quickly that barking would get her out (ooops!! If only I could start over!)
But if it’s due to losing their instinct to keep their sleeping place clean it could undo all your house training efforts and not only this, it’s very bad for the health of your dogs skin to lie in urine and excrement.
Bonus: The skills you learn in agility class will make you a better dog owner or trainer overall. I still use a lot of what I learned from agility, whether I’m working on a new Frisbee stunt with Merlin, getting a hyper dog to chill out, or teaching puppies not to bite.
Crate training is a method of teaching your puppy to hold his bladder and bowels by confining him in a cage or airline kennel, also known as a crate, when he is unsupervised. This allows you to prevent him from having accidents by taking advantage of his natural instinct to avoid soiling where he sleeps.
Kennel CrateThese sturdy Vari-Kennel plastic crates are an excellent choice for dogs that like a cozy place to hang out. You can use them for travel, too, so they’re perfect for pups who want to join you when you go on vacation! Wire Crate with Wood FrameThis crate is a perfect option if you want an attractive crate but have a pup that may have accidents or nibble on an all-wood crate. It’s easy to clean and there are wire panels between your pup and the finished wood frame.
I have to admit though, I do recall my parents not properly crate training her and sometimes even using force to put her in the crate…but it was decades ago, I was young and my family’s knowledge wasn’t as good then as it is now.
For successful training, practice the following basic training steps with your puppy every day. Keep training sessions short. Your puppy will see everything as a game, so keep him stimulated by changing what he’s learning. Do each command for about five minutes and come back to it whenever you can.
To retrain her, just go back to the beginning. Crate train her as though she has never been before. Teach her to love the crate as the provider of good things and so on, following the advice in my crate training series. She should progress very quickly.
Put a bed and/or blankets in the bottom of the crate. Don’t be surprised if the bedding gets chewed. It is not a good idea to put an heirloom quilt as the doggie bedding! You can get cheap blankets from Goodwill or the Salvation Army. Always include some toys or comfort objects for the dog. Some people have special treats, safe chews such as a nyla-bone, or toys that are only given when the dog is in the crate.
work on calming techniques. Do not take her out until she becomes calm. Whenever she is quiet in the presence of the leash give her a treat. at first it will be for any little bit of quiet. then eventually you drag out the length of quiet between treats. It will take some time and consistency. You most likely won’t be walking her right away. She has to learn to be quiet in the presence of the leash, while putting the leash on, and wearing the leash. Good luck!
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Don’t use a crate if puppy is eliminating in it. Eliminating in the crate could have several meanings: he may have brought bad habits from the shelter or pet store where he lived before; he may not be getting outside enough; the crate may be too big; or he may be too young to hold it in.
After you decide on some new skills you’d like to teach your dog, you’ll be ready to start training. To maximize her learning potential and make sure you both enjoy the training experience, keep the following basic tips in mind:
When you decide to take on the responsibility of a dog, socialization becomes your job. Exposing your dog to other dogs, people, and situations is actually part of his training and helps to shape his personality. He’ll learn what behavior is appropriate and what isn’t and he’ll be able to interact comfortably with dogs and people alike.
The first thing you want to do is make sure you have the right type and size of crate for your dog. Instructions for this can be found in the following article: What size dog crate should you get and which type is best?.
Hi, thank you for the best article I have read so far, and I have read a few! We have a 13 week Golden Doodle and are having trouble with sleeping at night. We have had him for four weeks. The first night we brought him home we tried placing him in his crate at night in the bathroom upstairs. He cried solidly and we felt bad, even though the breeder said to leave him to cry. The second night we put his crate next to our bed and he slept perfectly. (We made sure he was properly toileted etc before bed). We then took him to the vet on the third day to check him out, which was all good, and she said to put him in his crate in the laundry downstairs at night and leave him. So, we did that and he cried We called her to discuss and she said it would take a few days and we should persevere. We have tried for four weeks now and he cries persistently, especially from 4am until we wake at 6. We did try giving him a toilet break at 4am and putting him back in his crate, but it made no difference – he still cried until 6am. We ultimately are happy for him to sleep upstairs with us or the kids, once he is toilet trained and out of his crate. Can we just move his crate upstairs now and let him sleep with us, as he sleeps through when we do. The rest of the time he behaves beautifully with a mix of time spent by himself in the garden, time spent in the house with us, playing, going on walks etc. A couple of times a week I take him to work with me and happily snoozes in the crate next to my desk. He doesn’t make a sound and happily waits to toilet outside when I take him out for a break and a leg stretch. He is also very good in the car, and enjoys coming with me to take the children to and from activities – he sits quietly on the back seat, occasionally looking out of the window. He is otherwise very easy going and placid – we are just having trouble with him being very alone at night. I would appreciate your suggestions about this. Thanks very much.
Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that crating doesn’t become associated with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer.
If you run into trouble, go back a few steps If you’re training your dog to do something new and you stop making progress, you may have increased the difficulty of the skill too quickly. Similarly, if you’re practicing a behavior your dog hasn’t performed in a while and she seems a little rusty, she may need some help remembering what you want her to do. If you run into training challenges like these, just refresh your dog’s memory by making the skill a little easier for a few repetitions. Go back to a step that you know your dog can successfully perform, and practice that for a while before trying to increase difficulty again.
Dogs have to be taught to walk nicely on leash. They’re not born knowing that they shouldn’t pull ahead or lag behind. Teaching leash manners can be challenging because dogs move faster than us and are excited about exploring outdoors. Leashes constrain their natural behaviors and movements. Some dogs are determined to run around as fast as they possibly can. Other dogs want to stop, sniff and urinate on anything and everything in their paths. To teach your dog to walk without pulling, it’s critical that you never allow him to pull. If you’re inconsistent, your dog will continue to try pulling because sometimes it pays off.
Having a trained dog isn’t the same as having a balanced dog, but if your dog knows a few basic commands, it can be helpful when tackling problem behaviors — existing ones or those that may develop in the future.
Take it outside. Finally, you’re ready to test your puppy’s skills in the Great Outdoors. There will be new challenges with this step as all the sounds, smells, and sights your puppy encounters will be both intriguing and new to him. Be patient; keep the first walks short. While you’re on a walk, if your puppy looks as if he’s about to lunge towards something or is about to get distracted (you’ll notice this because you will keep your eyes on him at all times!), make your cue sound, and move a few steps away and reward his following you with a treat.
Paint the entire board with white primer. When the primer is dry, outline a 1-foot-wide area over the fulcrum with painter’s tape. Paint the contact zones on either side of the board in yellow paint mixed with an antiskid additive.