CONTACT ZONE TIPS: In the beginning your dog won’t have any problem making the contacts, but watch out, unless your dog is small, it most likely will become a problem later. Don’t let missed contact zones become a habit. If your dog seems to have difficulty making the contact zones, you can use “honers”, either chicken wire mesh gates, wire hoops, or even simple orange cones, to mark the sides better. Many trainers also encourage you to teach your dog to “target”, which is to have your dog stop just at the bottom of the contact zone (with his feet still on the plank), wait for your treat (or click, if clicker training), then release your dog to the next obstacle. Most people with fast and large dogs would benefit from teaching their dog this command. It is important to be consistent with target training, however. Another method is to teach your dog to slow down with the “easy” command.
Our program is designed to establish a solid agility foundation while focusing on the importance of a positive dog-handler relationship. A screening for basic, off-lead control and sound temperament is required before a dog can enter any level of the program.
Jumpers or Jumping: This numbered course consists primarily of various types of jumps and, depending on the organization, also weave poles and tunnels. The dog must negotiate the obstacles in the correct order within the standard time (SCT). The dogs achieve their fastest speed on these courses because there are no contact obstacles to slow them down.
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If a dog doesn’t meet expectations at the end of a training course, it is as likely to be related to the training course or the pet owner as the dog. A recommended next step would be to carefully research more training methods and local trainers to find a program that is better suited to your dog. Another one is to consider whether lack of commitment, inconsistent at-home practice, or an inconsistent discipline/reward system may have undermined the training program.
You can have her on the bed sometimes during the day if you really must, just NEVER at night and to sleep. Although I strongly recommend you NEVER let her on the bed as this will be far easier for her to understand. If you want to allow her on the bed sometimes then you need to spend time training her ‘UP’ and ‘OFF’ commands.
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Place the crate in a central part of the household (living room, TV room, etc). Make the crate inviting and comfortable for your dog. Usually, dogs will go over and investigate. When your dog goes near the crate, reward it by throwing a food treat into the crate or near its entrance. Repeat this every time the dog goes near the crate. If the dog settles down inside the crate, reward this behaviour either with your voice or with food rewards. You want the dog to view the crate as a wonderful place to be, full of goodies and fun. You don’t want to shut the door of the crate just yet. Your dog needs to understand that it can come and go as it pleases, therefore reinforcing it as a good place to be.
The real reason for crate training, besides preventing problems, is to help you predict when the pup will need to eliminate, so you can take him to the correct spot. The first step is to start a regular feeding schedule. Confine him after eating for 10 to 15 minutes, and then take him to the elimination spot. I say, “Go pee.” They do understand, and will learn to pee on command. PRAISE him after he eliminates.
This means buying a good crate of the correct size, a few required accessories, have a location and a crate training plan all ready before you even bring your Labrador home. This way you can start crate training as soon as possible…the younger they are, the easier it is!
When you are crate training your dog, he can be in only 3 places. 1. He can be in his crate. 2. He can be in a safe area where he’s allowed to go potty (fenced yard, dog run, indoor potty area). 3. He can be in the house under your direct supervision.
Basically, our aim is to unite the best dog trainers in Ireland and bring the talent into one place such as this website to help out the people in need and point them to the right professionals.We donate to pooch charities monthly and we are here to provide amazing Residential dog training information for the local audience.
Puppies under six months of age shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for that long. The same goes for adult dogs being housetrained. Physically, an older dog can hold it, but they don’t know they’re supposed to.
This was part 3 in an 8-part series that details everything you need to know about the use of a crate and crate training your puppy. The information applies equally well to dogs of all breeds and not just Labradors.
Box Work is a staple of good handling. It is especially useful for helping handlers to improve timing and for dogs to understand collection as well as the skills we can work on “in the box” situation. Working straight, 90 degree turns, 180 and 270 degree turns, wraps, threadles, pushing to the backside of a jump and moving past a jump without taking it can all be practiced with a simple box. Double-box work provides even more challenges! For dogs and handlers in Agility II and III.
hello i have a cross between a red setter and an alsation hes is of medium build, when we walk him he walks on his back legs and wont stay by us and is always pulling, we train him in the garden on a leash and he is perfect but as soon as we get out the front door he turns into a different dog altogether, he is not aggressive but highly excitable and i have seen people cross the road if they see us coming, he has even pulled us into the road in front of a moving car, we need help he is missing out on his walks because we just cant control him, can you suggest anything.
I hope this helps in some way? As I’ve said, it won’t be easy, no method will be without days of crying and whining I’m pretty sure. But be firm, ignore her crying completely and she will soon learn it gets her nowhere and will stop.
Although the club might be named after your nearest village, their training venue might be sixty miles down the road. You also want to find out if training is indoor or outdoors. Outdoor venues can become quagmires in winter and you will need your waterproofs if it rains. If on a farm, the flock a sheep in the neighbouring field can be an appreciative audience but too much of a distraction for your dog if he is a baa-baa chaser. Many agility clubs hire indoor riding schools for training classes. Perfect for the dog that is prone to doing a runner because you can shut the doors; however, the flooring can be a bit tempting for those dogs that like digging holes or eating horse manure.
Secondly, make sure you read up on what size crate your puppy needs because too small is inhumane, too large and it loses a lot of its usefulness and appeal to your puppy. The linked article contains instructions and advice on how to measure your puppy correctly for a crate and why it’s so important.
After choosing which kind of crate to use, it’s important to make the new crate comfortable. Put it in a room where you spend lots of time, but out of the way of foot traffic. Next, put a soft bed or blanket and a toy or two inside. You can even put a shirt you’ve recently worn into the crate so your dog will feel comforted by your scent. (If your dog likes to chew fabric, you can skip this part.) If you purchase a wire crate for your dog, she might like to have a blanket or towel draped over it to create a more “den-like” feel.
When she cries and whines in the crate, the absolute last thing you want to do is go to her and give attention of any description, either good or bad. Any attention she receives will likely reinforce her behavior because you will inadvertently teach her that if she makes a noise for long enough, eventually you will come. Doesn’t matter if you talk kindly and try to soothe her, or shout at and scold her, any attention will do for her and she will continue to make noise thinking (or having learnt) it works to get you to come and give attention.
You can start with Potty pads if you plan on keeping the pup crated at night. You will have a crate large enough to have a separate area for the pads. You can also take him outside after meals so he can go to the bathroom, this will also help in potty training and house breaking.
Background: I have two 7 year old Yorkshire terriers. They use to live with my sister and now they are with me. Both dogs have little to no training and several bad habits. They sometimes pee and poop inside the house sometimes they chew on shoes or clothes and they bark when they are left alone.