The average dog book refers to dogs as “den dwelling” animals and presumes that confining imparts a feeling of security to a puppy. Dogs, in fact, are not den dwelling animals, although in a variety of canids the dam will construct a nest (often underground) for the pups. The nest is a defense against predators and protection against inclement weather. The pups use it as a “home base” from which they explore, investigate and play. There is no door on the den which encloses the pups for many hours.
A dog leash is a direct connection between you and your furry friend. The second you grab the leash from the closet, your puppy is up and about, ready to go on a walk around the neighborhood. Tug a bit on the lead during your walk, and your pooch will slow down or stop altogether, ready to wait for you to catch up. This is both a safety restraint, as well as a communication tool between you and your furry friend.
Please have a read of this article and see if you can identify any of the symptoms listed, then take a read of their hints and tips for treatment of mild separation anxiety: Seperation anxiety, from the ASPCA
Crate training also teaches puppies and excitable dogs to expect and enjoy some down time, and conditions relaxed behavior. Dogs and pups can be put into a crate with a yummy and safe chew or stuffed Kong to keep them secure, relaxed, and out of mischief for periods of time.
The problem is that at 4 years old, she has had A LOT of time to develop the habit and get used to sleeping on your bed. It’s an ingrained way of life. And dogs, labs especially, are very sociable and want to be near their family.
As with any person who learns the ins-and-outs of their job, dogs can get lazy and fall into patterns. An important aspect of any training routine is to watch for those patterns and disrupt them. If you always tell your dog to sit before her evening meal, try getting her to lay down instead, or sit randomly while on her daily walk. If you have trained your dog to “find” his toy, try hiding it up high or in a completely unexpected place. You want to keep your dog challenged and motivated to think through tasks. This is critical for service animals like our explosives detection dogs (and their handlers) who have to switch up routines and keep their training fresh to avoid falling into predictable thinking and behavior.
Also, dogs are known to be den animals. They like having a safe and secure place to call their own. If crate training is done correctly, crates can provide this safe haven. Dog owners often report that their dogs continue to seek out their crates long after house training has been accomplished. For others, once the dog is able to be left alone for several hours without having an accident or becoming destructive, they stop using the crate and allow their dogs free run of their homes while they are out.
Remember, if a dog bites it’s going to be your fault 99 percent of the time. Proper puppy training, socialization and respect between dog and owner will keep biting out of the picture and make puppy training a lot more fun.
I have a Sibercaan (Native American Indian Dog/Canaan Dog hybrid), and only stubborn persistence works. If I stop, he’ll lean into the harness continually and won’t back off. One time I tried to out wait him, but after 45 minutes I had to literally lift him off his front feet to turn him around. He has snapped a chest lead, supposed ‘large breed’ leashes, so I made a harness by serging 2″ five ton rigging strap and a leash made of 7200lb test mooring line, with a harness handle. Basically I just lift him like luggage and redirect him before I put him back down. Although he’s disappointed, it doesn’t hurt him because of the wide straps, and letting a dog strain at a standstill is terrible for their hips and paws. Manual lift and redirect is safer and faster. Granted, this is only as effective as your ability to lift the dog. He’s 110 pounds currently with 20 or so to go, so for most people he would easily pull one off their feet in a linear tug of war. When I say lift,I’m just taking the weight off his front paws, so when he pushes with his hind paws,he just stands up, and it’s actually pretty easy to redirect him this way. I’ve had success with my neighbor’s mastiff at 178 pounds with this method, and it works with my sister’s behemoth Newfoundland retriever at 190 pounds. The biggest thing is to be patient, his breed is renowned as sled pullers, so the stop and wait thing is more like a challenge to him. If you teach them that no matter how strong they are you can still direct them in a calm manner, they generally become cooperative. Hopefully this will help some other large breed owners.
It’s that time of year again. The shops are full of chocolate eggs and hot cross buns in preparation for Easter weekend, many of us are looking to nice long weekend away from work, and the weather is improving…maybe! read more…
Agility is the fastest growing canine sport. Dog/handler teams race against the clock and other teams through obstacle courses including jumps, tunnels, teeter-totters and weave poles. In the agility classes our instructors will show you tips and tricks on doing safe, fast and fun agility all in our fully matted, indoor, temperature controlled facility. Classes include: Agility Foundations, Agility I, Agility II, Agility III. Our instructors also train in other canine sports and are able to bring training tips and tricks from those venues as well.
One of the most frustrating things about owning a dog, is having them ignore you when you call them to you. It needn’t be like that. Teaching your dog to come to you when you call should be the first training you give him. Do it right and you will never be one of those frustrated and angry owners. And by getting him to come to you, you are reinforcing your status as pack leader. Do it by crouching down and calling him cheerfully by name. When he comes, make a big fuss of him. It’s called ‘positive reinforcement’ and it works. You will see the benefit of mastering this early in his training career every single day.
I have an 11yo son who has always wanted his best mate in his bedroom and of course Monty’s rather partial to this also. I always slept him in a crate in our bedroom until 3 years old or so but then I allowed the odd night in our sons room. Then it became more frequent. Then, well, we allowed him to become…or he graduated himself into…a ‘free in the bedroom’ dog at night and sleeps on his bed in my sons room. Or on the bed in my sons room (too often!). AND I have been known to let him sleep on the bed with me when the Mrs is away, and it’s not completely unknown to happen even when she’s here! What can I say, we’re suckers for the love of our dog 🙂
acrtive Affect aggressive aggressive dog calm can’t go outside yet clingy comfortable alone Dog dog chasing cars dog collar dog comfortable in crate Dogs dogs play nicely eating cat poop feeding former kennel Fun go outside Halloween Costumes home alone how make dog comfortable collar how to how to make my dog comfortable in his collar Ignoring Me introduce a new dog make my dog comfortable in his crate other dogs peeing potty training potty train my puppy Reduce Dog Fights sleep sleep through the night stop stop dog stop my dog stop my dog from jumping on people stopping dog Break Out of Crate stop scratching Training training pads trash uncomfortable yapping
The thing is, dogs do not generalize well. They are very situation specific. Spending time in a crate at night when dark and her family is nearby but asleep is not at all the same as spending time in a crate during the day when everybody is out of the house at work anyway. These are completely different situations and a dog compartmentalizes these situations differently and will act differently towards them. She could be happy and comfortable crated in one of those situations while not being happy at all in the other.
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The other day I got up and did 10 minutes of click-treat for quiet, but this morning I just flat out ignored the barking. After she was quiet again for sometimes (this went on until 6:20am), I let her out and took her out to the bathroom, and we started the day. She eats breakfast around 7:00.
Would you expect a toddler to be able to run a marathon? No. And puppies are too weenie to get over full height jumps. The age that a club will accept a dog will vary from six months upward. Most ask that a dog to be at least a year old or has finished growing. This ensures that the dog has the strength and co-ordination to perform the equipment competently and the stamina to last through a class. It also minimizes the risk of injury. Falling off the dog walk is no fun.
If you return and there are no messes, gradually lengthen your absences. For example, start with five minutes. Then try a half-hour, then an hour, then two hours and, finally, four or five hours (the maximum recommended length of time).
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Anyway, once we’ve completed steps 1 to 8, we now have the behavior we want, our puppy will enter the crate and lay down, so we now need to begin extending the amount of time they’re happy to do this.
Because your domesticated dog will treat their crate just as a wild dog would treat their den, he will not want to soil their sleeping space. Therefore, you can be sure that, if at all possible, your dog will not have an accident in their crate, so when you let them out of their crate to go outside, he will naturally seize that opportunity to relieve themself. While there are other methods of house training your puppy, this is a very instinctual transition, requiring mainly that you take your puppy out of their crate at reasonable intervals to use the restroom. This way, your puppy will pretty easily, and perceptively, pick up that he is expected to do their business outside, not in.
This Pawhut dog tunnel is the ideal training device for improving your dog’s agility and obedience. This training tunnel is meant to boost the athletic potential of any dog! It will take your dog to a…