But what happens when you are not at home and in easy reach of this training tool? Citronella collars are readily available on the Internet and in most reputable pet stores. Attached to the neck, the mechanism lies beneath the dog’s throat and when vibrated by the sound of the bark, shoots a small stream of citronella spray outwards. It achieves the same goal – when a dog barks, they smell a scent they don’t like. I recommend this collars only in extreme cases however and they should not be used 24/7 for a dog as they lose their effectiveness as a training tool otherwise.
As the dog becomes more comfortable eating in the crate, you can introduce closing the door. Start by closing the door as your dog eats its meal. Make sure you open it before the dog finishes its meal. As you progress, gradually leave the door closed for a few minutes at a time. Soon you should have a dog that will happily stay in its crate after a meal. If the dog whines; ignore the behaviour and try to reward it or let it out as soon as it is quiet. Next time, make sure the dog is in the crate for a slightly longer period of time.
Continue to stand now that your dog is not pulling. Now you will click for eye contact. After the click, treat by your left foot. Remember after he has finished eating the treat to move to the end of the leash.
Few people give up agility once they have started. It’s addictive. When you have finished your introduction course, where to next? You’d like to advance up a level and try something a little bit more difficult. Does the club have a system of progression? The larger the club membership, the more likely there is to be a choice of different classes and greater number of instructors, but size isn’t everything. Smaller clubs can be more relaxed and intimate. Some people prefer to remain with an instructor with whom they have established a rapport rather than changing as they improve.
Extend Crate Time: Over a week’s period or so, increase the length of time that puppy stays inside the crate with the treat toy. In between training periods, just leave the door open. You’ll be surprised how often a worn-out puppy might seek out crate time on his own for a nap—or to get away from the cat.
How does your dog cope when left home alone? Does he wait patiently for your return, listening for the sound of the car on the drive, or the key in the lock? Does he become bored or even stressed and seek out some entertainment? read more…
It’s completely up to you whether you crate him at night or not, but it is a preference of mine until I can completely trust them not to misbehave in the house while I’m sleeping. Sleeping him in the crate at night will strengthen familiarity of the crate and him seeing as his little den, a place to relax and sleep at other times. So it can have benefits toward him accepting and enjoying the crate during the day more.
You’ll finally know you have succeeded when the dog crate is integrated into your home like any other fixture: it will be the place your dog voluntarily spends some amount of each day seeking out comfort and solitude, or where he goes contentedly and willingly when you ask him.
Remember that this process can take time; you will probably not have your dog walking on a loose leash the first time. Take frequent short walks. Be consistent and positive. In time, your dog will learn how to walk properly on the leash.
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It also helps to have another dog around to engage in play while the leash is on. If you have no other dog, then play with him or go through some fun training routine, such as a small retrieve with a toy or sits and downs with a treat. When he is doing this and looks comfortable, occasionally pick up the leash and call him to you. Do it gently and encourage him to come up to you.
Training a small dog can be hard on your back and scary for your dog. Especially in the early stages of training basic obedience commands, it can intimidating for your small dog if you are towering over him. To put him at ease and to save your back, start at the same level as your dog. You can do this by getting down on the ground with your small dog or bringing him up to your level by putting him on a table or step. Once he is comfortable with training and learning new commands, you can begin to work on training while you are standing and he is on the ground.
this was very helpful. i still have a question though. my siberian husky(year old) has separation anxiety and destroyed his last wire crate and put a hole in his outdoor kennel(which is chain link). when left in the house alone he gets into stuff and i was told he scratches the door. i’m underage and no one will invest anymore money in my dog except for feeding him. i’m lost and i don’t want to have to move out of my grandma’s due to his behavior. do you have any good advice or websites i can look at to help him?
When you are crate training your dog, he can be in only 3 places. 1. He can be in his crate. 2. He can be in a safe area where he’s allowed to go potty (fenced yard, dog run, indoor potty area). 3. He can be in the house under your direct supervision.
At PetCareRx, we believe a proper training starts with buying the proper dog training supplies. We have a huge selection dog training collars and electronic dog collars which help pet parents train their dogs with much ease.
This exercise, from master trainer and contributing DogTime editor Ian Dunbar, helps teach puppies good leash manners. Pick a quiet place free of tempting distractions to practice in, usually indoors or in a fenced area.
Crate training takes advantage of your dog’s natural instincts as a den animal. A wild dog’s den is their home—a place to sleep, hide from danger and raise a family. The crate becomes your dog’s den, where they can find comfort and solitude while you know they’re safe and secure (and not shredding your house while you’re out running errands).
When you take your dog to his potty area, remember not to stay there endlessly, waiting for something to happen. You’ll be more successful in your housebreaking if you get your puppy into the habit of going potty promptly when he gets to the right spot. The way to do this is to stay in his potty area briefly to see if he has to go. Wait for about 2 minutes, either standing still or walking back and forth in a small area if your dog seems to need to move around a bit to “get things moving”. If he empties out within that period of time, praise him and play with him or take him for a walk as a reward for doing the right thing. If he doesn’t go within that period, take him back inside or away from his indoor potty area (supervise him carefully to prevent accidents) or put him back in his crate, then wait for a bit and give it another try.
Money. Therein lies the rub. One of the drawbacks to training competitively is the cost. Between class fees and trial entries, this can be an expensive sport. That doesn’t have to deter you, though. Many clubs offer significant discounts on training and entries if you work at their trials, which was a huge help for me. I earned quite a few free or nearly free classes by working trials. The fees for junior handlers (-18) are also considerably more affordable.
After dogs understand wait, making any encouraging noise or gesture lets them know to get the treat. They naturally throw it up in the air and try to catch it. The secret to catching the treat lies with the owner not the dog. Using an appropriate sized treat for your pet and positioning it correctly helps your dog complete the trick. This could take trail and error, but soon you and your dog will be professionals at this balancing act.
The tags can be hung from the strap loop, and the excess length is often cut off. These collars should fit snug enough to keep your dog from sliding out, but loose enough to breathe if he gets hung up on something.
Housebreaking 3 pups at once is going to take some effort for sure! You need to take them out whenever they need to go, which will quite likely be different for each pup as they have different bodies and mature at slightly different rates. There’s no real secret to housebreaking more than one puppy, all the techniques are the same, just x3 and sometimes very manic!
Also, dogs are to be den animals. They like having a safe and secure place to call their own. If crate training is done correctly, crates can provide this safe haven. Dog owners often report that their dogs continue to seek out their crates long after house training has been accomplished. For others, once the dog is able to be left alone for several hours without having an accident or becoming destructive, they stop using the crate and allow their dogs free run of their homes while they are out.
And before we get into the nuts and bolts of how to crate train a puppy, for those that haven’t followed my crate training series so far, you’ll first need to have a crate ready and soak in some introductory knowledge.
Crates will be plastic, (often called flight kennels or Vari-Kennels) or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dog’s crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around.
He is very receptive and enjoys being in his crate – this is his den, although I have been closing the door a few times throughout the day without much trouble at night he tells you exactly what he thinks.
Don’t use a crate if puppy is eliminating in it. Eliminating in the crate could have several meanings: he may have brought bad habits from the shelter or pet store where he lived before; he may not be getting outside enough; the crate may be too big; or he may be too young to hold it in.