How do you LLW train a dog like that? My first dog is a very calm one, he was trained not to pull a long time ago when I still used corrections, was untrained when I stop using them and now pulls sometimes but it’s easy to tell him just not to pull and he won’t.
The two dogs (Jack Russell mix) that do this are related-by-blood, they’re brothers from the same litter (aged 7yrs) and they get on well…They’re both hyper active and easily excitable. The third is a recent addition to the family, he’s a pure-bred Jack Russell (8 months) and he’s a lot more calmer than the brothers. I have no problems with him on the lead but I would love to walk them as a group, something I used to do years ago before the brother’s hyper-barking became too much. :/
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If your dog’s reached the stage where they can be trusted, crating only deprives them of the freedom to move around that they’ve earned by working hard with you in training, to learn and abide by the rules you want them to live by.
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1. Prepare some yummy treats in advance, and grab a couple in your hand. Sit by the crate and call your puppy or dog to you. Decide what language you will use to let her know it’s time to go in the crate: “go to bed,” or “kennel,” for example. The important thing is being consistent, always using the same language to crate her. Toss a treat inside the crate and use your language cue, pointing your finger inside the crate at the treat: “go to bed.” Praise her when she goes in, and give her another treat inside crate. Then give her the release to come out again: “okay!” Important: do not give her a treat when she emerges from the crate—remember, all treats happen inside the crate so she associates it with pleasure.
Because she can’t yet use her crate, your new puppy or untrained adult dog will also need her own space in your house where she can’t hurt herself or damage your belongings. Set up a safe, clean dog zone in your kitchen, laundry room, or mud room, or other easy-to-clean area. Pick up objects she can reach, and make the space comfortable for her: in other words, dog-proof the room. Use a dog gate to separate her from the rest of your house.
Clean the printing off the pipes using clear PVC cleaner (optional). Mark each section of pipe to length using the cut list below. Cut all the sections using a pull saw. Write the length of each section at the end of the pipe where the marking will later be covered by a connector or end cap.
As your dog gets better and you can now walk quite a distance without forging and pulling, don’t fail to reward intermittently. For your dog to walk without pulling he has to believe (because you rewarded him) that there is a better chance of good things near you than in the wide world. Use the long line if you have to control your dog and are not taking a walk. Remember, if you never let the leash get tight, your dog won’t learn that he can pull you. What he doesn’t know won’t hurt him or you!
Your dog needs time to sniff and relieve himself while on the leash, but it will help him to learn better manners if you decide when that will be. As you are practicing your leash walking with your dog, about every 5 minutes, at a time when you would usually give a food reward, instead say something like “go sniff” and let him sniff around or go potty while he is on the leash. This is a privilege or reward, so if he pulls on the leash during this free time say “lets go” and walk in the opposite direction, thereby ending the free time.
Beginner Agility introduces your dog to all the agility obstacles. Intermediate Agility teaches you how to handle your dog through short to mid-length multiple obstacle sequences and continues teaching competency with the teeter and weave poles. Advanced Agility teaches you and your dog how to proficiently navigate longer and more difficult obstacle courses. Competition Agility teaches you and your dog how to succeed amongst difficult competitive-level courses commonly seen in AKC, USDAA, and/or NADAC trials.
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Warning: You should never use a choke collar on puppies; dogs without thick neck fur; dogs with a respiratory problem; or breeds with fragile windpipes, such as Chihuahuas or Yorkshire Terriers because you could easily injure your dog.
Night 6 – Moved the crate to the hallway outside our bedroom door where she can still see us and all was ok the first night in this new spot (a little crying but after shushing her (wrong now I know) she quietened down and went to sleep), did the toilet breaks, all good.
For those of you that have never clicker trained using the idea of shaping before, I’ve found a pretty good video from Pam’s Dog Academy on YouTube where you can see a puppy going through its first crate training session.
2. Puppies don’t have habits that they’ve been forming their entire lives, whereas an adult dog may have spent its entire life never having to enter a crate. For this reason dogs may take a lot longer getting used to the idea of a crate. You must be patient and kind, doing your best to create positive associations between your dog and the crate. Try feeding your dog its meals near the crate.
During the night(sleeping time) should we have one puppy on each side of the bed, or should the crates be next to each other? This question I guess works for the day as well, should the crates be near each other during the day, or apart? (Given that my puppies really enjoy each other’s company and at times lay together).
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I would try to use part, or better yet all of her daily ration as her food rewards for walking and any other behaviors that you want to reinforce throughout the day. Doing this will strengthen your relationship with her, will help you remember to reward good behaviors, and will keep her from getting ‘extra’ calories. Good for you to notice she is putting on some extra weight and wanting to take it off and keep it under control!
If you have a fearful or anxious dog, you might think competitive dog sports are out of the question. After all, if unfamiliar people, dogs, and/or environments overwhelm your dog, how can you train him to participate, let alone compete, successfully? However, when it comes to agility, the very process of training might be just what your dog needs to help overcome his anxiety.
The main purpose of CDAFG is still that; it’s a fun group of people and their dogs hanging out and playing agility, a nurturing environment for young agility dogs and for any agility dogs that want to play in a trial-like atmosphere without the pressures (and financial costs) of real trials.