Your average adult dog will resist being crated more than a puppy will. A puppy has no habits or a way of life it’s used to and is learning how to live from anew. Making a crate a part of this is relatively easy. But an adult dog who’s spent perhaps years without ever being in a crate? You’re going to have to completely change life-long habits and introduce new behaviors. They may fight this to begin with.
Put the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the living room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Make sure the crate door is securely fastened open so it won’t hit and frighten your dog.
The only way to find out if your dog has got what it takes to do agility is to have a go. Dogs that don’t love agility are few and far between and to keep it that way, it’s important to start right. Find a good agility club where experienced instructors can teach you everything you need to know. Learn on new tricks in a controlled environment that facilitates good training practice on agility equipment that meets safety criteria. To locate a club near you with a beginner‘s class, look on the Agilitynet list and choose a few to contact. Give them a ring and have a chat or arrange a visit to watch a training session. There will be questions on both sides.
Pet supply stores and online vendors sell wire crates, plastic airline crates and mesh crates. Each style has its own advantages. Wire crates usually collapse for easy storage and portability, and they provide more ventilation than plastic ones. Plastic crates seem especially den-like and might make dogs feel safer and more secure when they’re inside. Mesh crates provide privacy for dogs and are the most portable, but they aren’t very durable. Some dogs chew through them and escape.
Your domestic dog is not wandering around in the wild as his ancestors did, but he is still a dog. Left to his own devices there’s a good chance he’d make fast work of your belongings: furniture, books, shoes, small electronics—anything with a satisfying rip or crunch to it, especially if he is still a puppy or even an anxious adolescent or adult dog who is new to your family.
This morning, you’ll teach your dog to relax for longer periods in her crate. You’ll need some treats, a new tasty chew bone or a KONG toy stuffed with something wonderful, like a little peanut butter or cream cheese, and something to occupy yourself. Ask your dog to go in her crate. When she does, praise her and give her the chew bone or stuffed KONG. Then close the crate door and settle down to watch TV or read a book in the same room. Keep your dog in her crate for about half an hour. (If she finishes her chew, you can periodically give her a treat or two, as long as she stays quiet.)
Did you know the CIA has its own dedicated staff of dog trainers? K-9 officers are an important part of our Security Protective Service (SPS), which ensures the CIA and its employees are kept safe. The trainers, all SPS officers themselves, work with a select group of dogs and handlers to teach them the ins-and-outs of explosives detection. Dogs have a remarkable ability to sniff out over 19,000 explosive scents, making them ideal for this job.
Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences. It’s important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don’t go too fast.
Aggressive behavior is the most common reason that people seek professional training for their dogs. Aggressive dogs require careful evaluation from a professional to accurately classify and diagnose the behavior. Puppies that display aggressive behavior are often diagnosed as undersocialized or hyperactive, and may evolve out of that behavior with regular obedience training. However, dogs with real aggression issues require specialized training from a behaviorist or trainer who understands genetic and hereditary factors, types of aggression, environmental factors and aggressive treatment methods. The number one suggestion when seeking an aggressive behavior specialist is to ask a trusted veterinarian. Dog rescues or other professionals may also have good referrals.
Can you recall anything that may have happened in or around the crate at the time she started to avoid the crate? Was she forced in? Did another animal use the crate? Loud noises? Anything out of the ordinary?
We have also been doing the exact same method in the car and I am so pleased to report that she hasn’t barked once in the car for about a week. Anytime I leave the car I give her a Kong or a tasty chew that she doesn’t get at any other time. When I return, I take that high value thing away. I also realized that after a long walk (to which we often drive to), I can leave her in the car in the sleeping for awhile (because she always falls asleep in the car-crate after our long afternoon walk). Before, I was driving home and then getting her up again and she would be tired but kind of energized again. She doesn’t know that we are ‘home’, so she can continue sleeping in there for a little while. Yesterday she slept in the car crate alone for 30 minutes, though I am sure she could have gone a bit longer.
Hello, thank you for this series. I have a few questions. We have a one year old dachshund who slept in bed with us from the time he was 12 weeks until 24 weeks. After that we started crating him at night as we moved in with my family while waiting to close on a home. He did very well in his crate there and was not alone as my family’s dogs were crated also. We recently moved and he whines and scratches at his crate and sounds extremely distressed whenever we put him in there to sleep. We have tried him in our room, other rooms, with and without a blanket covering the crate, and with chew toys and nothing seems to help. Any suggestions?
My Molly is the sweetest dog ever. She loves kids, she lets two min pins and a cat boss her around and she is afraid of rain. But at the same time, she is a fierce protector of her family. Last night I came home late from a babysitting gig. I have a cough and dogs were already put to bed by my husband. Molly heard me cough coming up the side walk and she went nuts! Barking and howling to alert the house of this “stranger”. I just yell it’s ok it’s just mommy! And she calmed down. We have had issues of break ins to our garage and the police officer saw this 60lb dog in the window barking and growling at him. He said NO way would anyone even attempt to break into this house with her like that. People confuse protection with aggression, but they are so vastly different.
Your puppy will wee inside multiple times during 4 hours, there is nothing you can do about this as they’re physically incapable of holding it anywhere near that time. Your puppy has to go somewhere and I cannot think of a better solution than on puppy pads, in a tray, on tarpaulin sheets in their exercise pen. This will keep your floors clean and be easiest for you to clean up when you get home too. You should initially place some paper around the pads too so it catches any misses (Though do expect some paper and pad shredding to occur for the first few days or more.) I use a similar set up when I have a puppy and have to leave them alone.
You can see in the video how the puppy is offering behaviors itself, never being forced, and we merely click and treat. You can at times see the puppy thinking, trying to figure out what’s wanted. The puppy is keen and eager to learn, enjoying the process.
Leaders also end affection. Give your dog lots of love and attention but be attuned to the pushy dog who demands it constantly. It might be an alpha move. If a pushy dog keeps asking for something, time after time (play ball or keep petting me), refuse. Place the toy out of reach and ignore requests. The same goes for pets who demand constant petting. Ignore the requests.
If it does get to the stage where they end up soiling their crate, they’ll feel very disappointed with themselves and anxious, so avoid this all costs. It’s basic care to allow your Lab the opportunity to go to toilet regularly.
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The excitement of getting a new puppy is often replaced with frustration as the reality of the hard work involved in toilet training sets in. We have some tips to help you when toilet training your puppy. read more…
When the course builders finish, the judge walks through the course and double-checks that the obstacles are legal, that they are placed where the judge intended, and that there are no unintended hazards on the course (such as potholes, uneven ground, or mud puddles) around which the course must be adjusted. For many classes, the judge then measures the path through the course to determine the optimal running distance of a typical dog. The judge uses that measurement with a speed requirement determined by the rules to calculate the standard course time, the time under which dogs must complete the course to avoid time faults. For example, if the course is 150 yards (or meters) long, and the rules state that dogs must run the course at a rate of at least 3 yards (or meters) per second, the standard course time would be 50 seconds. Other organizations, though, leave the decision on course time to the judge’s discretion
You’ll also find that crate training is useful for sequestering rambunctious dogs when you have company over, during car travels, and for making sure a new puppy or anxious dog is safe and happy at night – i.e. not eating everything that’s left within reach, tearing up furniture, or soiling the floors.
The structure of a well-taught and positive agility class is suited to fearful dogs. In a beginner class, dogs will be introduced to the obstacles at their own pace, not pushed into a situation they don’t feel comfortable with. It can take quite some time for an anxious dog to conquer the obstacles, but if he decides on his own that he’s ready, it will be far more beneficial for his self-confidence. Dogs also work the obstacles one dog at a time, so your nervous dog can train independently and focus on you and the training exercise rather than being too distracted by the other students.
But if they are happy spending 2 hours alone in the crate, adding 10s is pointless! Adding another 10 minutes is a good number, also less than a 10% increase at this stage. So at 90s I would only add 10s for my next target, but at half hour I would feel happy to add 5 minutes.
Once he’s got it, place the less tasty treat on the floor… but don’t completely cover it with your hand. Instead hold it a little bit above the treat. Over time, gradually move your hand farther and farther away until your hand is about 6 inches above.
(This method requires that your dog already have a reliable Sit and Come in distracting places.) Walk in your intended direction. The instant your dog reaches the end of his leash and pulls, red light!—stop dead in your tracks and wait. When he stops pulling and puts slack in the leash (maybe he turns to see what you’re doing and this makes the leash a little slack), call him back to you. When he comes to you, ask him to sit. When he does, say “Yes,” give him a treat and resume walking (green light). If your dog looks up at you in anticipation of more tasty treats, quickly say “Yes,” and give him one while you keep walking. If he pulls again, repeat the red-light step above. As you’re walking, reward your dog frequently for staying next to you or slightly ahead and for looking up at you. If you do this consistently, he’ll learn that 1) if he stays near you or looks at you, he gets treats and gets to keep moving, and 2) if he pulls on the leash, the fun stops because he doesn’t get to keep walking and he has to come back to you and sit. If your dog pulls toward an object to sniff or eliminate, carry out the red light, but when he comes back and sits by you, don’t reward him with a treat. Instead, make the object he wanted to sniff the reward. Say “Yes,” and release him to go to the object. (Make sure you go with him toward the object so that he doesn’t have to pull again to reach it.) After a few days or weeks, you’ll find yourself stopping less frequently. Make sure you continue to reward your dog for walking with slack in the leash or he’ll start pulling again.
Begin by capturing your dog’s correct behavior on leash. Even if he’s a whirling dervish or major-league puller, there will be times when he stops the craziness enough to let the leash go slack. He may even turn to look at you (probably to find out why you’re plodding along).
Hey I’ve always enjoyed these articles. I own a 6 month lab and love him more than anything. One thing I DO NOTa agree with is to never crate your puppy when you need a time out. tHis is dangerously. F someone loose some their patience, they could take it out on the puppy. We have to remember they are animals and deserve respect but our needs as humans come first.
Remember, just because you have reached the final stages of training, it doesn’t mean that behavior problems won’t crop up. Learn about the most common dog behavior problems and how to deal with them. These guides will help you navigate this part of the training process:
There are also some dividers available on Amazon that you can find by clicking here. You will have to measure your crate and see if one fits it. If it’s a close enough size, you should be bale to fix it to your crate but I cannot promise it will and it may take some modifying…while being mindful of not leaving any sharp edges at all of course!
However, if the barking occurs on too many consecutive mornings even though you ignore her, that can become habit and a real problem. There is a commonly offered way to address it…though you may not like the sound of it if you like your sleep…Get up BEFORE your puppy, before they have a chance to bark, so she learns she can get attention and your company in the morning without having to bark. This breaks the habit and the pattern, throws of what’s becoming (or become) her routine of morning barking. You can then push the time out by a few minutes each day and expect her not to bark, until you reach the time after a few days that YOU want to be getting up and not her.
When training your dog, whether it be leash training, potty training, or teaching your dog how to sit, it’s important not to lose patience or overreact if your dog isn’t behaving the way that you would like. Say you’re going for a walk and your canine decides to he’d rather pull in the opposite direction throughout your entire walk. It’s easy to become annoyed, but never yank on the leash, resort to yelling, or other angry behaviors. Your canine will not understand what you are trying to communicate to him. You need to stay disciplined in terms of keeping the leash loose, praising proper behavior, and not losing your temper. Remember that patience and consistency are the keys to dog training.
Fearful and insecure dogs benefit from low-key exposure to the world. Rather than going for a walk, try sitting on bench and just hanging out with your dog. Talk to him and periodically give him treats for any signs of relaxing in the situation, such as being calmer and able to pay attention to you and do easy behaviors you ask him to do (like sit) for tasty rewards.