“Dog Training Mouthing +Police Dog Training Facilities California”

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Wire Mesh type:Tie the crate door back so that it stays open without moving or shutting closed. If the crate comes with a floor pan, place a piece of cardboard or a towel between the floor (or crate bottom) and the floor pan in order to keep it from rattling.

Lynn, glad to hear they are doing well so far. It depends on the dog, but once they are comfortable and not whining you can try letting them out (which it sounds like your pups are ready). Make sure you don’t open the crate right away, stand next to it for a minute. And try taking them outside after so they know it’s time to do their business (versus roaming around). Hope that helps and good luck!

Hi, thank you for the best article I have read so far, and I have read a few! We have a 13 week Golden Doodle and are having trouble with sleeping at night. We have had him for four weeks. The first night we brought him home we tried placing him in his crate at night in the bathroom upstairs. He cried solidly and we felt bad, even though the breeder said to leave him to cry. The second night we put his crate next to our bed and he slept perfectly. (We made sure he was properly toileted etc before bed). We then took him to the vet on the third day to check him out, which was all good, and she said to put him in his crate in the laundry downstairs at night and leave him. So, we did that and he cried again. We called her to discuss and she said it would take a few days and we should persevere. We have tried for four weeks now and he cries persistently, especially from 4am until we wake at 6. We did try giving him a toilet break at 4am and putting him back in his crate, but it made no difference – he still cried until 6am. We ultimately are happy for him to sleep upstairs with us or the kids, once he is toilet trained and out of his crate. Can we just move his crate upstairs now and let him sleep with us, as he sleeps through when we do. The rest of the time he behaves beautifully with a mix of time spent by himself in the garden, time spent in the house with us, playing, going on walks etc. A couple of times a week I take him to work with me and happily snoozes in the crate next to my desk. He doesn’t make a sound and happily waits to toilet outside when I take him out for a break and a leg stretch. He is also very good in the car, and enjoys coming with me to take the children to and from activities – he sits quietly on the back seat, occasionally looking out of the window. He is otherwise very easy going and placid – we are just having trouble with him being very alone at night. I would appreciate your suggestions about this. Thanks very much.

If you’ve progressed gradually through the training steps and haven’t done too much too fast, you’ll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

When she woke up again, she pawed a little at the crate but didn’t bark. I waited for 5 minutes before letting her out. Only two click-treats in that time. She didn’t bark or whine, just lay there quietly and kind of chewed her blanket a little.

Dogs who suffer from separation anxiety should not be confined in a crate. (For more information, please see our article, Separation Anxiety.) If your dog shows any of the following signs of separation anxiety, please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate a qualified expert in your area:

If you asked her to sleep in the crate all night and closed the door, due to her medical condition she may soil in there so it’s NOT the best thing to do. If you were to crate her and she eliminates in the crate, she may lose her desire to keep it clean in future which can cause all sorts of problems. Additionally, dogs are clean animals and it would be so unfair to crate her when you know there’s a chance she may soil in the crate and then have to lay in or near her own waste. Given a choice, no dog would sleep close to their own (or anyone elses) bodily waste.

To answer your question, it really does depend on your particular dog. Some dogs prefer the safety and security of a confined space and can find being out in the yard with all the sounds and smells they can sense but not see and get access to quite frustrating. It can put some dogs into a high state of alert and arousal which can leave them stressed and may result in problem barking.

If you find this technique too slow you can try the reverse direction method. When your dog pulls, issue a ‘Let’s Go’ cue, turn away from him and walk off in the other direction, without jerking on the leash.

There is an ever-growing list of agility sanctioning organizations. The ones you’ll hear about most often in the US are NADAC, AKC, and the USDAA (see below for a more complete list of national and groups). Each organization has its own rules and style. For example, NADAC courses are spread out and focus on speed. They often challenge the handler to send their dog through the course at a distance. USDAA courses are “tighter” and more technically challenging.

Canine Pet Rescue Corp (CPR) is dedicated to reconditioning wayward dogs, in particular German Shepherd Dogs, with the end goal of placing them in a stable environment, which harbors positive behaviors from the dog.

Road Runner Leash, road runners and their puppies can rejoice with the new Road Runner Leash available from EzyDog. Never worry about your dog pulling you out of stride with this wonderful new running leash. This hands-free leash clips around your waist, leaving you to focus on your running with your puppy by your side. And with this running leash you can feel comfortable going for a run day or night, as it comes with a reflective surface to keep you safe at any time; 

To warm up, do a couple of repetitions like you did in the afternoon. Sit on the floor or in a chair next to your dog’s crate. Say “Go to bed” and point to the crate. When your dog goes in, close the crate door and reward her with a few treats while she stays in the crate. After about 30 seconds, say “Okay” and open the crate door to let your dog out.

The basic building blocks of agility are simple control exercises like ‘sit’, ‘down’ and ‘come’. You can expect to do some of your initial agility training with your dog on the lead, but it will soon go. Agility is a hands-free, off-lead sport. You don’t want to arrive for your first lesson and watch your dog disappear down a rabbit hole only to reappear at the end of the lesson. In addition, if you have already establishing a working partnership with your dog (I command, you do, I give you treat/toy/cuddle), you can apply this to agility and speed up the learning process. Your dog will already know that there are lots of titbits in your pocket and will be eager to find out what he has to do to get them.

Training should be fun, challenging, and rewarding – for both you and your dog. The energy and enthusiasm you put into the training session will affect your dog. As our lead K-9 trainer Dennis says, “What you’re feeling runs straight down the leash to the dog.” Having a bad day? Leave it at the door when you enter the training room. And, while it’s important to stay focused and energetic while training, unstructured play and relaxation is just as necessary. Dogs, like people, need time to unwind.

Because your puppy getting scared of the crate is the worst thing that could possibly happen, the first thing you want to do is just to get your puppy used to it being there, the sight of it, perhaps even wander in and out of it of their own accord, without you doing any formal training or trying to get them inside.

Help!! Long-story-short, we have 3-12 week Boston Terrier puppies, 2 male, 1 female (plus 6 yr old neutered male Boston). We are crating them and that is going fine. My questions are how do you house break 3 puppies at once? Do we need to use leash every time and take out separately? How long should they be in their crates since it is so much easier to keep track of them versus if they are left out of crates? We live on 30 acres and back yard is fenced. I’ve crate trained and housebroken dogs before but never 3 at once.

I’m really hoping that I can get her on a consistent schedule that goes along with my schedule. For now I definitely want her to learn that the crate is her safe place to rest (rather than under the bed) and get her started on potty training. It’s going to be a lot on my part on being consistent to make the transitions as smooth as possible.

She has even been in kennel and she rubs her nose raw, squeals like a baby and paws non-stop at the cage. Oh, and can I mention, she leaves nasty messes where both she and the kennel need cleaning. This is nearly a daily deal unless someone is home with her.

Change direction. Hold the leash close to your side, so the dog has just a few inches of slack, and start walking. Whenever the dog pulls in any direction, go the opposite way. If she lunges ahead, turn around and walk in the reverse direction. If she pulls left, turn right, and so on. Don’t jerk on the leash, just smoothly change direction. Your dog will realize that if she doesn’t want to be left behind, she needs to stick close to your side.

I would say you are well on your way to crate training your sister’s Bichon. In time when he stops the barking give him a treat while in the crate so he doesn’t feel like he is being punished. Try placing his favorite toy in the crate.

Training your dog is a wonderfully rewarding and engaging experience, one you will both enjoy, whether you are instilling basic obedience commands in a young pup, or working on more advanced tricks with an older dog.

Proponents of crate training argue that dogs are den animals and that the crate acts as a substitute for a den. While this is a widely held belief, there is little evidence to support it.[1] Borchelt (1984) states:[1]

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Your end goals sound reasonable and easily achievable to me. Dogs are remarkably versatile creatures and will eventually slip into and live along with whatever schedules we create for them. As long as their needs are being met for mental stimulation, exercise, training, food, water and sleep, they will fall into line with the work, play, exercise and sleep patterns we decide for them. So you should be fine!

If your dog walks pretty nicely without pulling or dancing, mark and reward him every so often to give him a “reference point.” If he understands that you like him to walk calmly without pulling, and he gets excited and forgets his manners somewhere down the road, be sure to mark and reward him when he resumes polite walking.

The two dogs (Jack Russell mix) that do this are related-by-blood, they’re brothers from the same litter (aged 7yrs) and they get on well…They’re both hyper active and easily excitable. The third is a recent addition to the family, he’s a pure-bred Jack Russell (8 months) and he’s a lot more calmer than the brothers. I have no problems with him on the lead but I would love to walk them as a group, something I used to do years ago before the brother’s hyper-barking became too much. :/

I rescued a 9 month old American Pitbull terrier. I am in the process of crate training her, it has been successful, in despite of only having her for 3 months. She comfortably goes in her crate. The most challenging part is that she is afraid of other people so it is difficult for me to walk her. She constantly pulls the opposite direction. However, my biggest problem is that my sister just moved in with me and she has a 12 years old Bichon frise who has never been trained. He suffers from major anxiety and is unable to be crated/left alone. Due to our busy work schedule, both dogs will be left alone for a long period of time. My questions is, is it possible to crate train a 12 years old Bichon frise? Yesterday in the morning, we put her bichon in the crate with a treat for 20 minutes. We also covered the crate with a blanket just enough so he could look around. He paced back and forth and barked loudly. We did it again in the afternoon for 40 minutes. We stepped out the house to see what he would do and he barked for 20 minutes. When we came back inside the house, he stopped barking but was pacing. We left him in for an additional 20 minutes. In addition to this, when my American terrier/pitbull comes near him in a playful manner, he barks at her. To sum it all up, I have 3 challenges. First my terrier pitbull pulls when I am walking her. Secondly, my sister’s dog is not trained and finally, the two dogs can not be near each other. Any help would be highly appreciated. Thank you so much for your time!

Crating is a good way to stop bad chewing habits forming. If you can’t supervise your puppy, crate her a short while and make sure there are acceptable chew toys in there with her and it will promote chewing on the things you’d like her to while not giving her the chance to chew the things she shouldn’t.